The traditional vegetable tanning of leather is an craftsmanship process that involves transforming raw animal hides into durable and supple leather using natural substances. In this process, tannins extracted from plant sources such as bark or leaves of trees are used to create a chemical reaction that stabilizes the collagen fibers in the skins. This process, which can take several weeks, imparts a rich, earthy aroma and distinctive patina to the leather. An additional step in the traditional tanning process often involves dyeing the leather in wooden barrels. Barrels made from wood, such as oak or chestnut, contribute to the development of unique color variations and depth in the leather. The absorption of color in wooden barrels not only enhances the aesthetic appearance of the leather but also adds a touch of craftsmanship and authenticity to the final product. This ancient technique not only produces the highest quality leather but also celebrates the art and heritage of leather tanning.
Drying the leather
One of the main regions in the world renowned for the tradition of vegetable tanning is undoubtedly the Italian Tuscany, where within a relatively small area between Florence and Pisa, several tanneries still exist. Their knowledge and expertise are built on decades of experience and originate from family crafts. In 1994, a small group of artisans from this region established the consortium for vegetable-tanned leather "Il Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale", which today brings together 19 member tanneries from the area. All consortium members share a passion for the traditional method of leather tanning and are unified in maintaining the highest standards of raw materials, ingredients, and production processes, which is evident in the leather they produce.
Il Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale logo
So evident that the decision to make town square man products from vegetable-tanned Tuscan leather was entirely straightforward. Furthermore, I wanted to take it a step further and try to directly connect with one of the tanneries. Among the few consortium members I decided to contact based on initial impressions and reviewing online catalogs, Conceria Il Ponte seemed the most willing to listen to a "greenhorn" from neighboring Slovenia. "The Bridge tannery", as their name translates, is located in Fucecchio (30 km east of Pisa), leans on over 50 years of tradition. They were among the first consortium members and remain part of the board members today.
Revolving wooden barrels for soaking the hides
After exchanging several emails, they sent me a package of samples covering most of their articles in all color variants. The decision was tough this time, but with the collection of future products in mind, I soon selected Ponte Wax full grain leather in the colors of Nero, Cognac, and Whisky as favorites. The choice of colors was, of course, made under the watchful eye of Mrs. Town square man :)
Leather
In addition to ordering the leather, I managed to arrange a personal pickup, as well as a presentation and tour of the tannery. So, one August morning with a rented van, I embarked on a "professional excursion" to Tuscany. Upon arrival at the Conceria Il Ponte building, I was welcomed by Martina, who is also the co-owner and heavily involved in running the family business. The presentation of the tannery and their working methods was conducted during a tour of the building. Thus, I added practical examples to the theoretical knowledge I had brought with me. I also witnessed the opening and emptying of barrels in which hides have been soaking in color. The meeting concluded with a review and handover of the ordered leather and finally loading it into the van.
Emptying of a barrel with black hides.
And so, the first collection of Town square man products got its medium, and the adventure ended the same evening in Ljubljana. I'm adding some snapshots from the tannery to the blog. You can read more about Conceria Il Ponte here.
Emptying of a barrel with red leather.
Thank you for the time you've dedicated to reading this article.
Until next time, godspeed, Urh